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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.